Starting assembly – Nov. 2010 – April 2011

Cleaned the frame and hand polished the nickel plating. Most of it’s still in nice condition, just a few spots at the rear of the frame that are worn through.

The engine was already pretty clean and was serviced just before it was pulled from the MZ, so I just wiped it down with WD40 to brighten the black and remove dust.

Laid the engine on it’s side and set the frame down over it. Still ended up having to set it all upright and lifting the engine into position.

After clearancing the starter motor “pedestal” with a die grinder quite a bit, the engine bolts finally go in. No engine bolts or spacers came with the frame, so I guessed on the bolt lengths and machined the spacers on my lathe after measuring distances between engine and frame. Like the Prego commercial says: “it’s in there”. 🙂

I bought a cheap bike stand from Harbor Freight and my buddy Carl helped carry the engine/frame assembly into my office and set it on the stand. Started working on making more missing spacers – this time for mounting the brake caliper. First I had to remove the oil pressure sender that the MZ uses from the oil filter cover and plug that, then position the caliper bracket squarely on the engine and measure for the spacers. A few more minutes of lathe time and the mount goes on.

I loosely fitted the caliper and measured for those spacers – one has to be contoured to clear the caliper, the other has to have a flat side to clear the bolt securing the mount to the engine. Still easy to make and it wasn’t long before I’d whittled them out.

Next up was making the top engine mounts/headsteadies – these were missing also. Made a cardboard pattern and then transferred that to 1/4″ 6061 aluminum plate. The bandsaw is still broken, so it took the better part of three hours to cut, drill and smooth then out.

That finished, I started installing some of the engine electrics, the engine breather hose and rear brake fluid reservoir.

Amazingly, the 4.6 gallon tank clears everything on the first try, guess I got it all in the correct position!

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

6 Responses to Starting assembly – Nov. 2010 – April 2011

  1. Brad Anderson says:

    Beautiful job so far! How`d you polish the frame? I have the Ni plated frame too and would like to get it looking like yours. I have a couple rust spots on mine too, where side panels rub and boots rub. Do you know how to touch those areas up? You`d think there`d be a Nickel paint you could match……?


  2. rotax504 says:

    I polished the frame with just a red shop towel, Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish and lots of “elbow grease”. The worn areas I just scrubbed with a green Scotchbrite pad before I gave the whole frame a heavy coat of wax. I tried some Dupli-Color Chrome paint on another project and that has about the same color and gloss as polished nickel, but it’s not very durable so would probably need to have clearcoat applied over it.

    • Brad Anderson says:

      Okay, thanks I`ll try that (hear of Mother`s several times for this….and elbow grease too!). I`ll check out Dupli-Color chrome and get some clearcoat to protect it, great tip to save me figuring it out when you already have. I`ll do a test first to ensure I`m happy with it, but frankly anything is better than rust so I may add it until I find an exact match. Maybe it`ll be so close I won`t even need to improve on it.


  3. Brad Anderson says:

    Do you rub the was on and is it just like car wax? What`s the purpose of the wax – does it keep it shiny, repell moisture and dirt/grime/oil etc.? Never heard of waxing a frame before is all……..

  4. rotax504 says:

    Yes, just applied the paste wax (Mother’s again) just like you’d wax a car, except I loaded up the applicator with more and “globbed” it on, let it dry and then buffed it off. I hope it will slow down oxidation and make the frame easier to clean. Some guys I know coat any polished metal with Johnson’s liquid floor wax to do the same thing. There are purpose made products such as “Zoopseal” to protect polished metals, but I’m too cheap to buy them. 🙂

    • Brad Anderson says:

      Okay will do that too! Keith at says a restored ATK 604 is awesome……and judging by the care you`re taking, yours will be just that. You`re inspiring me to strip mine done and re-assemble it, cleaning, polishing, waxing, and painting as I go! Look forward to the rest of it, and the more cheapo ways you do it, the better because I`m a closet el cheapo myself. I like to call it `thrifty` though, not that it fools anyone but it does sound better.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s